Fuchka

Step 1: Make the tamarind water: soak 2 ⅛ oz tamarind pulp in 200 ml of the ¾ cup cold water for 10 minutes, squeeze through a sieve, then stir in the rest of the 1 ¼ cups cold water, 1 tsp black salt (bit lobon), 1 tbsp sugar, 1 green chilli and 2 tbsp fresh coriander. Chill until needed.

Step 2: For the shells, mix 4 oz fine semolina (sooji), 2 tbsp plain flour and 1 pinch bicarbonate of soda and add ¼ cup water a little at a time to make a stiff, smooth dough. Knead for 3 minutes, cover with a damp cloth and rest for 20 minutes; the semolina softens and the dough becomes pliable.

Step 3: Roll the dough very thin, about 1 mm, and cut 5 cm rounds. Keep them under a damp cloth so they don't dry out. A common mistake is rolling too thick: thick rounds won't puff and turn hard instead of crisp.

Step 4: Heat 2 ½ cups vegetable oil in a deep pan over a medium-high heat to 350°F, when a scrap of dough rises at once with a fizz. Fry 5–6 rounds at a time, pressing them gently with a slotted spoon; they should puff into balls within seconds. Turn and fry until pale golden and crisp, about 1 minute in total. Drain and cool.

Step 5: For the filling, crumble 2 potatoes into a bowl with 5 ½ oz cooked yellow peas (motor) and mash coarsely. Mix in 1 red onion, 3 green chillies, 1 handful fresh coriander, 1 tsp roasted ground cumin, ½ tsp chilli powder and ½ tsp salt. Taste: it should be punchy and quite salty.

Step 6: To serve, tap a hole in the top of each shell with your thumb, spoon in a little filling and pour in the cold tamarind water just before eating, so the shell is still crisp in the mouth.