Fileja al pomodoro piccante

Step 1: Heap 14 oz semola rimacinata (fine durum wheat semolina) on a board, make a well and add ¾ cup warm water a little at a time, mixing with your fingers into a firm dough.

Step 2: Knead for 10 minutes until smooth and elastic, then wrap and rest for 15 minutes.

Step 3: Meanwhile warm 3 ½ tbsp extra virgin olive oil in a wide pan over a medium-low heat and cook 1 red onion for 6 minutes, until soft and translucent.

Step 4: Add 2 cloves garlic and 1 tsp dried Calabrian chilli flakes and stir for 1 minute, until fragrant. Pour in 1 ¾ lb tinned peeled plum tomatoes and 1 tsp salt and simmer gently, half covered, for 25 minutes, stirring now and then, until thick and slightly darker.

Step 5: Cut a piece of dough, roll it into a rope about 7 mm thick and cut into 8–10 cm lengths.

Step 6: Lay a thin metal skewer or knitting needle (2–3 mm) diagonally on one piece. Press down with your palms and roll forwards so the dough wraps around the needle in a long spiral. Common mistake: too much flour on the board; the dough just slides and won't wrap. Use only a light dusting of semolina.

Step 7: Slide each fileja off the needle onto a semolina-dusted tray. Repeat with the rest of the dough.

Step 8: Bring a large pan of water to the boil with 1 tbsp coarse salt and cook the fileja for 5–7 minutes, until they float and are tender but still springy.

Step 9: Lift them into the sauce with a ladle of cooking water and toss over a medium heat for 1 minute. Tear in 10 basil leaves and serve hot.