Chotpoti

Step 1: Drain 7 oz dried yellow peas (whole motor) and put them in a pan with 1 litre water, ½ tsp ground turmeric and 1 tsp salt. Bring to a boil over a high heat, skim off the foam, then simmer partly covered for 30 minutes.

Step 2: Add 2 potatoes and simmer for 15–20 minutes more, until the peas are soft enough to crush with a finger and some have split, thickening the liquid. Mash a ladleful against the side of the pan. It should be loose and spoonable; add hot water if it gets too thick.

Step 3: While it cooks, toast 2 tsp cumin seeds, 1 tsp coriander seeds and 3 dried red chillies in a dry pan over a medium heat for 2 minutes, until the cumin darkens a shade and smells toasty. Grind finely with 1 tsp black salt (bit lobon).

Step 4: Soak 1 ⅜ oz tamarind pulp in ¾ cup warm water for 10 minutes, squeeze and strain, then stir in 1 tbsp sugar. It should be sharply sour with a little sweetness.

Step 5: Stir half the masala into the peas. A common mistake is to add the tamarind to the pot; keep it separate so every bowl gets a bright, fresh sourness.

Step 6: Ladle the warm peas into bowls. Grate 2 eggs over the top and pile on 1 red onion, 3 green chillies, ½ cucumber and 1 handful fresh coriander. Scatter over the remaining masala and the crushed 8 fuchka (pani puri) shells, drizzle with tamarind water and eat at once.