Chicken and andouille gumbo

Step 1: Season the 2 ¼ lb boneless chicken thighs with half the 1 tsp salt and the 1 tsp black pepper. Brown it with the 14 oz andouille sausage (smoked pork) in a large heavy pot with 2 tbsp of the 1 tbsp vegetable oil over a medium-high heat for 8 minutes, then lift out.

Step 2: Add the rest of the ½ cup vegetable oil and the 4 oz plain flour to the pot and stir constantly over a medium heat with a wooden spoon or flat whisk for 35–45 minutes, until the roux is the colour of dark chocolate and smells nutty.

Step 3: Add the 2 onions, 3 celery sticks and 2 green peppers at once; the roux sizzles and darkens a shade more. Stir 8 minutes until soft, then add the 5 cloves garlic for 1 minute.

Step 4: Pour in the 8 ¼ cups chicken stock a ladle at a time, stirring so no lumps form. Add the 2 bay leaves, 1 tsp dried thyme, ½ tsp cayenne pepper, the rest of the 1 tsp salt, the chicken and sausage.

Step 5: Simmer uncovered for 1 hour, skimming off the oil that rises. The chicken must reach 165°F and be tender enough to break with a spoon; the gumbo should be like thin gravy, not stew. A common mistake is boiling it hard, which makes the chicken stringy.

Step 6: Taste for salt, stir in the 4 spring onions and 3 tbsp fresh parsley and serve over the 2 ⅝ lb cooked long-grain rice.