Calçots amb salvitxada

Step 1: Soak 3 dried ñora peppers in just-boiled water for 30 minutes until soft.

Step 2: Meanwhile roast 2 ripe tomatoes and 1 head garlic on the grill or in a 400°F (350°F fan) oven for 25–30 minutes, until the tomato skins split and the garlic is soft when squeezed.

Step 3: Scrape the soft flesh from the inside of the ñora skins with a knife. Peel the tomatoes and squeeze the garlic cloves out of their skins.

Step 4: Pound 2 ⅛ oz blanched almonds, ⅔ oz hazelnuts and 1 slice bread in a mortar, or blitz in a food processor, to fine crumbs. Add the ñora pulp, tomato, garlic, ½ tsp sweet paprika and ¾ tsp salt and work into a paste.

Step 5: Add 2 tbsp red wine vinegar, then ½ cup extra virgin olive oil in a thin stream, mixing until thick, orange and creamy, like a coarse mayonnaise. Taste: it should be nutty and gently sharp. Set aside.

Step 6: Grill 30 calçots over a very hot fire or barbecue, or on a ridged pan at full heat, for 8–10 minutes, turning, until the outer layers are completely black and the stems feel soft when squeezed. A common mistake is pulling them off when merely streaked brown; the inside will still be raw and fibrous.

Step 7: Wrap them in bundles in newspaper or foil and leave for 10 minutes to steam and finish cooking.

Step 8: Serve in their wrap with the salvitxada in bowls. Peel each one by pulling the charred skin down from the green end, dip and eat.