Boerenkoolstamppot

Step 1: Put 2 ⅝ lb potatoes in a large pan, cover with cold water and add half of ¾ tsp salt. Bring to the boil over a high heat, then lower to a steady simmer and cook until a knife slides through the biggest piece with no resistance.

Step 2: Meanwhile make the gravy. Melt ⅔ oz butter in a small pan over a medium-low heat, add 2 onions and cook slowly, stirring now and then, until soft, sticky and deep golden brown and smelling sweet.

Step 3: Sprinkle ½ tsp smoked paprika over the onions, stir for 30 seconds, then pour in 1 ¼ cups vegetable stock. Simmer for 3 minutes, stir in the 1 tbsp cornflour mixture and keep stirring until the gravy turns glossy and coats a spoon.

Step 4: Heat 2 tbsp sunflower oil in a frying pan over a medium-high heat. Fry 7 oz smoked tofu for 3 minutes a side until crisp at the edges and deep bronze. Keep warm.

Step 5: Drain the potatoes well and let them steam in the pan off the heat for 2 minutes so the surface looks dry and floury. Add 1 ⅜ oz butter and mash until smooth, then beat in ¾ cup whole milk until creamy but still thick enough to hold a ridge.

Step 6: Put the pan back over a low heat. Add 14 oz curly kale in two handfuls and fold it through the hot mash for 2–3 minutes, just until it wilts and turns vivid green. The common mistake is boiling the kale with the potatoes: it goes dull, watery and smells of cabbage.

Step 7: Season with the rest of ¾ tsp salt, ½ tsp black pepper and ¼ tsp ground nutmeg. Spoon onto warm plates, press a hollow into the middle of each with the back of a ladle, fill it with onion gravy and lay the smoked tofu alongside. Serve 4 tsp Dutch mustard on the side.