Boat noodles

Step 1: Put 1 ½ lb beef shin or brisket and 1 ⅛ lb beef bones in a large pot, cover with cold water and bring to the boil over a high heat. Boil for 5 minutes, then drain and rinse off the grey scum; scrub the pot. This keeps the finished broth clean-tasting.

Step 2: Toast 3 star anise, 1 cinnamon stick and 1 tsp white peppercorns in a dry pan over a medium heat for 1–2 minutes, until fragrant.

Step 3: Return the meat and bones to the clean pot with 12 ½ cups water, the toasted spices, 1 oz galangal, 2 stalks lemongrass, 4 coriander roots, 1 head garlic and 3 pandan leaves. Bring to the boil, then lower to a gentle simmer with the lid ajar.

Step 4: Simmer for 1¼–1½ hours, skimming now and then, until a piece of shin is tender enough to cut with a spoon. Add a little hot water if the level drops below the meat.

Step 5: Mash 2 cubes red fermented bean curd with its liquid and stir it into the pot with 3 tbsp light soy sauce, 2 tbsp dark soy sauce, 1 oz rock sugar or palm sugar and 1 tsp salt. Simmer for 10 minutes. Fish out the bones and aromatics, keeping the shin. The broth should be dark, savoury and slightly sweet, and a touch under-seasoned.

Step 6: While the broth finishes, soak 10 ½ oz thin dried rice noodles (sen lek) in warm water for 10 minutes until pliable, and bring a separate pan of water to a rolling boil for blanching.

Step 7: Drop 12 beef balls into the simmering broth for 5 minutes, until heated right through.

Step 8: Working one bowl at a time, put a small handful of noodles with some 7 oz morning glory (water spinach) and 5 ½ oz bean sprouts in a noodle basket or sieve and dip it in the boiling water for 20–30 seconds, until the noodles are just soft. Drain well and tip into the bowl. Overcooking is the common slip: the noodles keep softening once the broth goes on.

Step 9: Dip a few slices of 7 oz beef sirloin or rump into the simmering broth in a sieve for 30–60 seconds, until no pink remains, and add them to the bowl with a few pieces of shin and 2 beef balls. Keep raw-beef plates and boards away from the garnishes.

Step 10: If using ½ cup fresh cow's or pig's blood, whisk it into about 500 ml of the broth in a small pan off the heat, then bring it to a full boil over a medium heat, stirring all the time, for 2–3 minutes until it darkens and thickens the broth. Never add blood to a bowl uncooked; skip it entirely if you can't buy it fresh from a butcher you trust.

Step 11: Ladle the hot broth over, about 200 ml per small bowl. Top with 1 handful Thai sweet basil leaves, a spoonful of 4 tbsp crispy fried garlic in oil and some 1 ¾ oz pork crackling. Put 4 tbsp chilli vinegar, 2 tbsp fish sauce and 2 tsp dried chilli flakes on the table for everyone to season their own.