Arikadukka

Step 1: Check the 24 large live mussels: throw away any with cracked shells and any open ones that don't close when tapped firmly. Keep them cold.

Step 2: Grind the 2 ⅛ oz grated coconut, 3 shallots, ½ tsp fennel seeds and ¼ tsp cumin seeds to a coarse paste. Mix into the 5 ½ oz rice flour with the ½ tsp salt, then stir in the ½ cup hot water to make a soft dough that holds its shape.

Step 3: Slide a small knife between the shells of each mussel at the flat edge and carefully open it just enough, keeping the hinge whole. Press a little dough into each shell, covering the mussel, and close the shell; tie with cotton thread if it springs open.

Step 4: Steam the stuffed mussels for 20 minutes, until the dough is firm and no longer sticky. Cool, then open the shells and lift out the dough with the mussel inside. Throw away any mussel that stayed tightly shut before stuffing.

Step 5: Mix the 2 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder, ¼ tsp ground turmeric, ½ tsp garam masala, ¼ tsp salt and 2 tbsp water into a paste and rub it all over the dumplings.

Step 6: Heat the 5 tbsp coconut oil in a frying pan with the 12 curry leaves. Fry the dumplings over a medium heat for 6–8 minutes, turning, until crisp and red-brown. The mussel inside should be firm and opaque. A common mistake is a high heat, which burns the chilli coating and turns it bitter.

Step 7: Serve hot with the fried curry leaves.