Ambur biryani

Step 1: Mix 1 ⅔ lb mutton (goat) on the bone with 5 ½ oz plain yogurt, ½ tsp ground turmeric and 1 teaspoon of the 1 tsp salt. Cover and marinate in the fridge for 1 hour, never at room temperature.

Step 2: Drain 12 dried red chillies and grind them with 3 tbsp ginger-garlic paste and 2–3 tablespoons of water to a smooth red paste.

Step 3: Rinse 1 ⅛ lb seeraga samba rice gently 3 times and soak it in cold water for 20 minutes only, then drain.

Step 4: Heat ½ cup sunflower oil and 2 tbsp ghee in a heavy, wide pot or large pressure cooker over a medium heat. Add 2 cinnamon sticks, 5 cloves, 5 green cardamom pods and 2 bay leaves and let them sizzle for 30 seconds.

Step 5: Add 3 onions and fry for 10–12 minutes, stirring, until soft and golden brown, not dark.

Step 6: Stir in the chilli paste and fry for 4–5 minutes until it darkens and the oil begins to separate. Add 3 green chillies and 2 tomatoes and cook for 5 minutes until the tomatoes melt.

Step 7: Add the marinated mutton with its yogurt, half the ½ oz mint leaves and half the ⅓ oz fresh coriander. Fry over a medium-high heat for 5 minutes, stirring so nothing catches.

Step 8: Pour in a third of the 1 ¼ cups water, close the pressure cooker and cook for 4–5 whistles, about 20 minutes, until the mutton is tender but not falling apart. In a pot, cover and simmer for about 1 hour. Let the pressure drop by itself.

Step 9: Open the pot and measure the liquid: you need about 900 ml in all with the meat juices. Top up with the rest of the 2 ½ cups water, add the rest of the 1 ½ tsp salt and 1 lemon and bring to a rolling boil. Taste; it should be slightly over-salted, as the rice absorbs it.

Step 10: Add the drained rice, spread it level and scatter over the remaining ½ oz mint leaves and ⅓ oz fresh coriander. Cook uncovered on a medium-high heat for 6–8 minutes until most of the liquid has been absorbed and small craters appear on the surface. Common mistake: stirring once the rice goes in; it breaks the small grains and turns the biryani pasty.

Step 11: Cover tightly with a lid (seal with foil if it is loose) and set the pot on a flat tawa over the lowest heat for 20 minutes for dum. Turn off the heat and leave it closed for 10 minutes more.

Step 12: Fluff gently from the sides with a wide spoon, lifting the mutton up from the bottom, and serve hot.